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Pantanal, Brazil (Center on Interactive Map)

Map of Pantanal, Brazil

Map of Pantanal, Brazil

Giant Otter (Pteronura brasiliensis) Jaguar (Panthera onca) Jaguar (Panthera onca) Snail Kite (Rostrhamus sociabilis) Rufous-tailed Jacamar (Galbula ruficauda) Green Iguana (Iguana iguana)
Greyish Saltator (Saltator coerulescens) Southern Screamer (Chauna torquata) Black Skimmers (Rynchops niger) in Love Green Kingfisher (Chloroceryle americana) Limpkin (Aramus guarauna) Thrush-like Wren (Campylorhynchus turdinus)
Capped Heron (Pilherodius pileatus) Cocoi Heron (Ardea cocoi) Capybara (Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris) Ringed Kingfisher (Megaceryle torquata) Yacare Caiman (Caiman yacare) Jabiru (Jabiru mycteria)
Snail Kite (Rostrhamus sociabilis) Brown-chested Martin (Progne tapera) Rusty-backed Spinetail (Cranioleuca vulpina) Yellow-bellied Elaenia (Elaenia flavogaster) Purplish Jay (Cyanocorax cyanomelas) Little Cuckoo (Piaya minuta)
Rufous-tailed Jacamar (Galbula ruficauda) Unicolored Blackbird (Agelaius cyanopus) - Male Rusty-collared Seedeater (Sporophila collaris) Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer) Orange-backed Troupial (Icterus croconotus) Unicolored Blackbird (Agelaius cyanopus) - Female
White-wedged Piculet (Picumnus albosquamatus) Roadside Hawk (Rupornis magnirostris) - Juvenile Yellow-rumped Cacique (Cacicus cela) Swallow Tanager (Tersina viridis) Blue-fronted Parrot (Amazona aestiva) Black-capped Donacobius (Donacobius atricapillus) - Juvenile
Giant Otter (Pteronura brasiliensis) Giant Otter (Pteronura brasiliensis) Yellow-billed Cardinal (Paroaria capitata) Purple Gallinule (Porphyrio martinica) Creamy-bellied Thrush (Turdus amaurochalinus) Maguari Stork (Ciconia maguari)
Picazuro Pigeon (Columba picazuro) Amazon Kingfisher (Chloroceryle amazona) Amazon Kingfisher (Chloroceryle amazona) Scarlet-headed Blackbird (Amblyramphus holosericeus) Great Potoo (Nyctibius grandis) Argentine Black And White Tegu (Salvator merianae)
Picui Ground-Dove (Columbina picui) Grey-headed Tanager (Eucometis penicillata) Pale-crested Woodpecker (Celeus lugubris) Monk Parakeet (Myiopsitta monachus) Southern Caracara (Polyborus plancus ) White-winged Swallow (Tachycineta albiventer)
Grey-breasted Martin (Progne chalybea) Cattle Tyrant (Machetornis rixosus) Blue-fronted Parrot (Amazona aestiva) Scaly-headed Parrot (Pionus maximiliani) Narrow-billed Woodcreeper (Lepidocolaptes angustirostris) Chestnut-eared Aracari (Pteroglossus castanotis)
Great Horned Owl (Bubo virginianus) Marsh Deer (Blastocerus dichotomus) Large-billed Tern (Phaetusa simplex) Capybara (Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris) Hyacinth Macaw (Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus) Ringed Kingfisher (Megaceryle torquata)
Jabiru (Jabiru mycteria) Black-collared Hawk (Busarellus nigricollis) Rufescent Tiger-Heron (Tigrisoma lineatum) Juvenile Greater Rhea (Rhea americana) Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture (Cathartes burrovianus) Wattled Jacana (Jacana jacana) - Juvenile
Rufescent Tiger-Heron (Tigrisoma lineatum) Whispering Ibis (Phimosus infuscatus) Collared Plover (Charadrius collaris) Screaming Cowbird (Molothrus rufoaxillaris) - Juvenile Bay-winged Cowbird (Agelaioides badius) Sungrebe (Heliornis fulica)
Black-backed Water-Tyrant (Fluvicola albiventer) Plumbeous Ibis (Theristicus caerulescens) Black Howler Monkey (Alouatta caraya) Large-headed Capuchin (Sapojus macrocephalus) Gray-necked Wood-Rail (Aramides cajaneus) Buff-breasted Wren (Thryothorus leucotis)
Variable Oriole (Icterus pyrrhopterus) Marsh Seedeater (Sporophila palustris)

The world's largest freshwater swamp.



7/15/2011: Needing to see a jaguar, we caught a ride back to the Cuiaba Airport. There, we were picked up by the representatives of the fazenda who would drive us deep into the North Pantanal. This area is reputedly a good place to see a jaguar. The drive to the fazenda took several hours as we stopped to look at every caiman and giant white bird on the way.

Arriving at the lodge was bittersweet. We were certainly a long way from nowhere, but the lodge was especially run-down for the price that we were paying, and it was right next to the road. Our guide was very young, and he did not have a lot of in depth knowledge of the ecosystem. I guess that is the penalty for booking late. Adding to the plethora of biting insects, there was no shortage of bedbug activity at the lodge. The road turned out to be infrequently traveled except by us as we commuted for nearly an hour each day in their run-down truck.

The first couple of days was not looking so great in the search for the jaguar either. We took a couple of small hikes into the forest near the fazenda, and we drove around on the Transpantanal road. On the third day, we drove to the end of the Transpantanal. We took a a boat for several hours from there to search for the jaguar in the Cuiaba river and tributaries. We did have some good viewing time with a family of Giant Otters. We took a swim in the river which seemed pretty much OK until we found out later how many piranha lived in the river.

It would have been nice to stay in the clean and empty hotel by the river, but we had to shuttle back and forth to the bedbug lodge. So, we had to get a very early start to get to the boat that we would use to look for the Jaguar. It was our last day in the Pantanal, and I was resigned to not seeing the Jaguar.

But, to my surprise, we came up to a boat that had just seen one next to the river. For the next five hours, we staked him out although he was mostly just resting in the shade.

Finally, more bedbug bites and the long ride to Cuiaba ended the trip. After four days of craving pizza, we got some kind of weird sauce-less pizza at a place next to the airport.

Previous Visit (Chapada dos Guimaraes: 7/14/2011)
Next Visit (Itacare: 7/21/2011)

Species Recorded (139)

Birds ( 125 )

Rheas ( Rheidae )
Greater Rhea - Rhea americana

Tinamous ( Tinamidae )
Undulated Tinamou - Crypturellus undulatus

Hawks, Eagles, and Kites ( Accipitridae )
Savanna Hawk - Buteogallus meridionalis

Cormorants ( Phalacrocoracidae )
Neotropic Cormorant - Nannopterum brasilianum

Anhingas ( Anhingidae )
Anhinga - Anhinga anhinga

Herons ( Ardeidae )
Great Egret - Ardea alba
Cocoi Heron - Ardea cocoi
Western Cattle Egret - Bubulcus ibis
Striated Heron - Butorides striata
Snowy Egret - Egretta thula
Black-crowned Night-Heron - Nycticorax nycticorax
Capped Heron - Pilherodius pileatus
Rufescent Tiger-Heron - Tigrisoma lineatum

Ibises and Spoonbills ( Threskiornithidae )
Green Ibis - Mesembrinibis cayennensis
Bare-faced Ibis - Phimosus infuscatus
Roseate Spoonbill - Platalea ajaja
Plumbeous Ibis - Theristicus caerulescens
Buff-necked Ibis - Theristicus caudatus

Storks ( Ciconiidae )
Maguari Stork - Ciconia maguari
Jabiru - Jabiru mycteria
Wood Stork - Mycteria americana

Swans, Geese, and Ducks ( Anatidae )
White-cheeked Pintail - Anas bahamensis
Muscovy Duck - Cairina moschata
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck - Dendrocygna autumnalis

New World Vultures ( Cathartidae )
Turkey Vulture - Cathartes aura
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture - Cathartes burrovianus

( Anhimidae )
Southern Screamer - Chauna torquata

New World Vultures ( Cathartidae )
Black Vulture - Coragyps atratus

Kites, Hawks, Eagles, and Allies ( Acciptridae )
Black-collared Hawk - Busarellus nigricollis
White-tailed Hawk - Geranoaetus albicaudatus
Snail Kite - Rostrhamus sociabilis
Roadside Hawk - Rupornis magnirostris

Falcons and Allies ( Falconidae )
Crested Caracara - Caracara plancus

Chachalacas, Guans, and Curassows ( Cracidae )
Bare-faced Curassow - Crax fasciolata
Chaco Chachalaca - Ortalis canicollis

Rails, Gallinules, and Allies ( Rallidae )
Gray-cowled Wood-Rail - Aramides cajaneus
Purple Gallinule - Porphyrio martinica

Finfoots ( Heliornithidae )
Sungrebe - Heliornis fulica

Sunbitterns ( Eurypygidae )
Sunbittern - Eurypyga helias

Limpkin ( Aramidae )
Limpkin - Aramus guarauna

Plovers ( Charadriidae )
Collared Plover - Charadrius collaris
Pied Lapwing - Vanellus cayanus
Southern Lapwing - Vanellus chilensis

Jacanas ( Jacanidae )
Wattled Jacana - Jacana jacana

Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers ( Laridae )
Large-billed Tern - Phaetusa simplex
Black Skimmer - Rynchops niger
Yellow-billed Tern - Sternula superciliaris

Pigeons and Doves ( Columbidae )
Picui Ground-Dove - Columbina picui
Ruddy Ground-Dove - Columbina talpacoti
White-tipped Dove - Leptotila verreauxi
Pale-vented Pigeon - Patagioenas cayennensis
Picazuro Pigeon - Patagioenas picazuro

New World Parrots ( Psittacidae )
Blue-fronted Parrot - Amazona aestiva
Hyacinth Macaw - Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet - Brotogeris chiriri
Monk Parakeet - Myiopsitta monachus
Scaly-headed Parrot - Pionus maximiliani

Cuckoos ( Cuculidae )
Little Cuckoo - Coccycua minuta
Smooth-billed Ani - Crotophaga ani
Greater Ani - Crotophaga major
Squirrel Cuckoo - Piaya cayana

Typical Owls ( Strigidae )
Great Horned Owl - Bubo virginianus

Nighthawks and Nightjars ( Caprimulgidae )
Nacunda Nighthawk - Chordeiles nacunda
Scissor-tailed Nightjar - Hydropsalis torquata
Common Pauraque - Nyctidromus albicollis

Potoos ( Nyctibiidae )
Great Potoo - Nyctibius grandis

Kingfishers ( Alcedinidae )
Amazon Kingfisher - Chloroceryle amazona
Green Kingfisher - Chloroceryle americana
Green-and-rufous Kingfisher - Chloroceryle inda
Ringed Kingfisher - Megaceryle torquata

Puffbirds ( Bucconidae )
Black-fronted Nunbird - Monasa nigrifrons

Jacamars ( Galbulidae )
Rufous-tailed Jacamar - Galbula ruficauda

Toucans ( Ramphastidae )
Chestnut-eared Aracari - Pteroglossus castanotis

Piculets and Woodpeckers ( Picidae )
Pale-crested Woodpecker - Celeus lugubris
Little Woodpecker - Dryobates passerinus
White-wedged Piculet - Picumnus albosquamatus

Ovenbirds ( Furnariidae )
Rusty-backed Spinetail - Cranioleuca vulpina
Rufous Hornero - Furnarius rufus
Narrow-billed Woodcreeper - Lepidocolaptes angustirostris
Streaked Xenops - Xenops rutilans

Antbirds ( Thamnophilidae )
Planalto Slaty-Antshrike - Thamnophilus pelzelni

Tyrant Flycatchers ( Tyrannidae )
Rufous-tailed Attila - Attila phoenicurus
Lesser Elaenia - Elaenia chiriquensis
Yellow-bellied Elaenia - Elaenia flavogaster
Black-backed Water-Tyrant - Fluvicola albiventer
Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant - Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer
Cattle Tyrant - Machetornis rixosa
Lesser Kiskadee - Philohydor lictor
Great Kiskadee - Pitangus sulphuratus
Vermilion Flycatcher - Pyrocephalus rubinus
Common Tody-Flycatcher - Todirostrum cinereum
Tropical Kingbird - Tyrannus melancholicus
Fork-tailed Flycatcher - Tyrannus savana

Cotingas ( Cotingidae )
Black-crowned Tityra - Tityra inquisitor

Swallows ( Hirundinidae )
Gray-breasted Martin - Progne chalybea
Brown-chested Martin - Progne tapera
White-winged Swallow - Tachycineta albiventer

Jays and Crows ( Corvidae )
Purplish Jay - Cyanocorax cyanomelas

Wrens ( Troglodytidae )
Thrush-like Wren - Campylorhynchus turdinus
Buff-breasted Wren - Cantorchilus leucotis
Black-capped Donacobius - Donacobius atricapilla
Moustached Wren - Pheugopedius genibarbis

Thrushes and Allies ( Turdidae )
Creamy-bellied Thrush - Turdus amaurochalinus

Tanagers ( Thraupidae )
Gray-headed Tanager - Eucometis penicillata
Yellow-billed Cardinal - Paroaria capitata
Silver-beaked Tanager - Ramphocelus carbo
Saffron Finch - Sicalis flaveola
Rusty-collared Seedeater - Sporophila collaris
Marsh Seedeater - Sporophila palustris
Swallow Tanager - Tersina viridis
Palm Tanager - Thraupis palmarum
Sayaca Tanager - Thraupis sayaca

Grosbeaks and Buntings ( Cardinalidae )
Bluish-gray Saltator - Saltator coerulescens

American Blackbirds and Orioles ( Icteridae )
Grayish Baywing - Agelaioides badius
Unicolored Blackbird - Agelasticus cyanopus
Yellow-rumped Cacique - Cacicus cela
Orange-backed Troupial - Icterus croconotus
Variable Oriole - Icterus pyrrhopterus
Shiny Cowbird - Molothrus bonariensis
Giant Cowbird - Molothrus oryzivorus
Screaming Cowbird - Molothrus rufoaxillaris
Crested Oropendola - Psarocolius decumanus

Cardueline Finches and Allies ( Fringillidae )
Scarlet-headed Blackbird - Amblyramphus holosericeus

Old World Sparrows ( Passeridae )
House Sparrow - Passer domesticus

Anis ( Crotophagidae )
Guira Cuckoo - Guira guira


South America


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